Sovereign (distilled at Cameronbridge) 23 year old 1990

Appearances can be deceptive, as this pallid specimen proves. Overripe honeydew melons, lemon cheesecake sprinkled with zest, vanilla pear muffins, cooked apple, spring blossoms, and icing sugar. The sweet, sugary opener is burnt out enjoyably by blistering burnt orange, butterscotch, and lemon bonbons. While the flavor intensity builds commendably, it doesn’t escape without a touch of astringency. Water makes this sing ‘Oranges and Lemons,’ but go easy with it. The finish is like a greedy mouthful of tarte au citron. £80