Douglas Laing Old Particular (distilled at Glenrothes) 17 year old

Light gold. A beautiful oxidized note, with soft fruitcake, steamed pudding, a little hint of overripe fruits, and sweet spices. As it opens, there’s barley sugar sweets, then custard tart with nutmeg, clover honey, and marzipan. Complex, in other words. Water shows how well-layered it is. It starts sweetly in the mouth with a thick, honeyed texture, which becomes more delicate with water. Elegant, long, and a great example of mature ’Rothes. £80