Berry Brothers & Rudd (distilled at Cragganmore) 1997 14 year old

Light straw. Initially this is quite hot and a little dumb, with whiffs of Indian spice — think turmeric and curry leaf — along with mint sauce (but no lamb) and a tickle of peat. The palate is quite intense and hot, with powdered almond, a grassy edge, and concentrated sweetness that starts in the center and builds toward the back palate. Subtle, but can’t help wishing there was just a little more say from the cask. £59